By the Way, What Are Branded Diamond Cuts?

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Cutting style can have a great impact on the beauty and scintillation of any diamond. Today there is a wide array of branded and proprietary cuts to choose from, aside of course from the standard round brilliant pioneered by Marcel Tolkowsky. The number of facets, as well as the arrangements, proportions and angles, contribute to how light reflects and refracts within a stone, eventually traveling to our eyes in the form of sparkle and brilliance.



Branded cuts are simply somebody's own set of proportions, facets (shape, placement and number), angles and other parameters, that they deem to be appealing or beautiful in a different and unique way. Many of these are patented by their creators, whether by an individual or specific company.

The normal grading scale used by laboratories (EX, VG, G, F, P) usually considers the standard modern cuts, like the round brilliant, princess cut or emerald cut, judging their proportions and light return. Some laboratories also assess branded cuts, but the scale to which these are compared or measured is sometimes unclear, as each branded cut shows brilliance in a different way. What then becomes the "ideal" for visual beauty. The lines are often blurred, and grading becomes significantly personal to the taste.



Gemcamp laboratories does not endorse any specific cut or brand. This editorial article is just to provide a quick glimpse into the many different branded cuts that have surfaced out from the evolving diamond markets.



The 62 facet Ashoka-cut was perfected and patented, but not invented, by William Goldberg, an American diamantaire. It's initial imagery relates with what you might think was a cross between an emerald cut and a cushion cut, but this unique cutting style is reportedly a favorite among many high class personalities- including actress Reese Witherspoon.


The Gassan 121 cut, as its name describes, is a proprietary round shaped cut that hosts 121 facets. This is quite the large number of flat surfaces when compared to the original round-brilliant cut (57-58 facets). The distribution features 16 additional facets on the top and 48 additional facets at the bottom, and increases the amount of sharp reflections that burst out from the stone when rocking and tilting.


The Crisscut™ diamond cut was created by Christopher Slowinski, of Christopher Designs. The company holds the design patent and registered trademark for this diamond cut. The branded cutting style has certain facets that are purposely crisscrossed, and can be done in 2 shapes, namely rectangular or octagonal. Triangular shaped facets are polished into the steps of the pavilion. The style hosts 77 facets compared to a normal emerald cut’s 44 facets, which is said to increase a stone's radiance.


There are many other designer-cuts out there, and laboratories are starting to recognize several of them as well, including mentions onto reports (at their own discretion). For us, it's still a very subjective, matter of opinion though, as to whether these cuts make a diamond more beautiful or simply different in appearance. We believe that personal choice plays a large factor in the determination of this, much more than any type of grading standard traditionally used for cut.

Photography and Image Credit: Ashoka Diamonds / William Goldberg, Gassan Diamonds BV, Christopher Slowinski / Christopher Designs

Gemcamp Laboratories

A Discovery Institute for Gemstones and Gemology

Our resident gemologists believe in encouraging public trust within the jewellery industry through shared education, value transparency and professionalism.

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